Darien today. Images of Darien by James Appleton

 

A Highland firm is to become the first Scottish company to return to the site of a defining tragedy that shaped the nation’s history, over three centuries on.

 

Ethical travel company, Nomadic Skies, from Ullapool, has been working with indigenous people in the Isthmus of Panama to lead the first commercial trip of its kind back to the historic site of the Darien Project.

 

It was there, between 1698 and 1700, that thousands died in a failed attempt to establish a Scottish trading colony; a costly and consequential tragedy that became a factor in the union with England.

 

Now, the company, founded by Highlander Gavin Anderson (pictured below, centre), will take visitors back to Darien next April; the latest Scottish commercial attempt to find joy in that unforgiving stretch of wilderness.

 

Sustainable tourism

 

 

The idea for a return trip, nearly 330 years later, stemmed from Mr Anderson’s colleague, film-maker James Appleton, who spent weeks as a guest of the Darien’s Guna community. 

 

The locals’ desire to co-build a new future through sustainable and mindful tourism made him vow to return one day to pursue the idea – something which will now become reality.

 

Nomadic Skies works with indigenous tribes to create opportunity through tourism, hiring local guides to introduce paying visitors to native culture.

 

As well as generating employment, Nomadic Skies hope future trips can help support new infrastructure there, reversing the economic devastation the province wreaked upon 17th Century Scots.

 

 

"The jungle reclaims things quickly, but the place names are still there, and you get a feel of what it must have been like, centuries ago,” James said.

 

“I think it is important that it is a Scottish company doing this for the first time, in this way. 

 

“Aside from the rich history, this is a good fit for us, as a company which works in tandem with local communities. It will be nice, this time, to go back and signpost Darien as a Scottish success story.”

 

Today, place names such as Caledonia and Fort St Andrews still remain as echoes of a short-lived scheme which crushed Scotland’s hopes of becoming an independent trading power.

 

April’s 11-day trip, finishing in Darien, will begin in Panama City, to allow trip-goers time to acclimatise; a luxury not afforded to Scots hopeful empire-builders back in 1698.

 

The two Darien expeditions met hostile temperatures and diseases such as malaria, dengue and yellow fever.

 

Spain had claims in the region and the dream of making Scotland an economic powerhouse died in Darien within 8 months, with huge cost to life and national wealth.

 

Devastated Scots investors agreed to English compensation, enabling the Act of Union, leading Robert Burns to pen the lines, ‘bought and sold for English gold – such a parcel of rogues in a nation.’

 

How the Scotsman reported the story, created and distributed by Heartland Media and PR on behalf of Highlands client, Nomadic Skies

 

“It’s remarkable to be doing this, all these years later,” said founder Gavin Anderson.

 

“When learning about Darien in school, it was painted as an ill-judged disaster and total madness, but if you read the more nuanced accounts, it’s perhaps not the full picture.

 

“We actually discussed with one of the local guides why he felt the Scots failed. He said the Guna have lived there thousands of years. They had learned the skills needed to survive. The Scotsmen simply didn't have enough time to adapt.”

 

Scots seeking to join the small-group trip will fly into cosmopolitan Panama City before traveling and camping along the jungle-covered eastern coastline over several days, before finally understanding the historic connection between these two countries. 

 

The peninsula of Puerto Escoces (Scottish Port), the actual site of the doomed Darien Project, will be accessed by boat, under the expertise of local guides.

 

***Learn more about Nomadic Skies' Darien trip, here: https://www.nomadicskies.com/our-journeys/panama-remote-east-coast-the-land-of-the-guna-people-and-historic-darien